Well, after painting in a few irregular sessions over the past few weeks, here is the finished Spartan Hoplite in 54mm.
It has been a few months since my last post, I wish I could blame my distractions on either Grad School, Work or family commitments, but the truth is I have been somewhat lazy.
I recently found and purchased some 54mm models from Tin Soldiers . I have been wanting to make the transition to larger models for some time now and decided to finally take the plunge. The last large scale (above 28mm) model that I painted must have been more than 10 years ago, and that was for Inquisitor– you know, the 40k game with crap rules and great models.
So I decided to jump in with a unarmored Spartan Hoplite, wearing only a pilos helmet- fairly typical in the 3rd – 4th Century BCE- and before the adoption of Macedonian equipment and tactics in 225 BCE. I guess I was inspired by the Osprey book cover.
This first picture is of the unpainted, unprimed model- just the way it came out of the package. I was impressed at the level of detail and the lack of flash or other casting imperfections that are fairly common with metal models. The metal is rather soft- not hard like pewter, but unless you drop it, it should hold up well. For $10 you really can’t beat the quality.
After some very minor touch ups with a file the model was ready to go. The first step in painting- which any experienced modeler will tell you is actually the second step- right after clean up- is priming the model. I didn’t do anything special, I used Armory Brand white primer straight out the can. It covered well and brought up some of the details- which were really stunning.
I then let the model dry for a couple of days- the first couple of hours were under my heat/drying lamp.
#1 Paint all the flesh area(s) with your desired flesh tone.
#2 Use a dark wash (I used AP Strong Tone) and allowed it to dry.
#3 Go back and repaint all but the deepest area(s) the original flesh tone- this is a shading step.
#4 Then wash the painted areas with a thinned (50% water) mix of AP Soft Tone- and allow to completely dry.
#5 Pick out area(s) for final highlight effect using original flesh tone- it is pretty fast and quick and doesn’t require too much technical skill (like wet-blending) or knowledge with a color pallet. I estimate my total time in the model thus far is less than 2-3 hours.
I will keep you all up to date.
Earlier today, I took a break from my 28mm Byzantine Army to work on a template (for later production) for my DBA Trojans. It was a good break from the endless painted to be able to work on a single unit.
So I decided to complete an entire stand of Magister Militum Trojans, some excellent looking figures. I couldn’t stand the look of the Essex models and I am very glad I was able to get these instead. Well, not much to say other than I based coated them and washed them with Army Painter Soft Tone wash.
So after some they were done to this stage, I then painted the cow-hide shields separately. Again, I used AP Soft Tone on the shields and then attached them with some Super Glue Gel- Which is one of my favorites for small bits and pieces.
Well, I have completed a 20 man, mixed unit of Byzantine light infantry. The unit consists of 14 unarmored spearmen which are supported by 6 unarmored bowmen.
Historically, formations such as this were referred to a ‘Phalanx’, and consisted of multiple types of troops organized with spear/pikes to the front and lighter missile troops, which included javelin-men and bowmen in support. Well here they are, arrayed for your review.
I recently finished painting a Built Up Area (BUA) for DBA, and posted it on this website.
Having some free time and taking a break from other painting projects, I decided to add a base and a banner to my castle.
Well here it is for your final review.